James Okonkwo
January 10, 2026
A Masterclass in Classical French Cuisine
Le Comptoir is the kind of restaurant that reminds you why French cuisine became the foundation of fine dining worldwide. Chef Dubois doesn't chase trends — he perfects traditions. The duck press, performed tableside with a gleaming silver press, produces a sauce of such depth and complexity that it borders on alchemy.
The amuse-bouche of the evening — a single perfect gougère — set the tone. Each subsequent course built on the last. The sole meunière was textbook, browned butter nutty and fragrant. The soufflé rose exactly as it should, light as thought.
Service deserves special mention. The staff moves like a ballet company — every glass is filled before it empties, every course arrives with choreographed precision, and the sommelier's pairing with the Burgundy list was inspired. Two visits, both flawless.
The amuse-bouche of the evening — a single perfect gougère — set the tone. Each subsequent course built on the last. The sole meunière was textbook, browned butter nutty and fragrant. The soufflé rose exactly as it should, light as thought.
Service deserves special mention. The staff moves like a ballet company — every glass is filled before it empties, every course arrives with choreographed precision, and the sommelier's pairing with the Burgundy list was inspired. Two visits, both flawless.